When I lived in Cairo, I often found myself navigating the bustling streets and heavy traffic after work. I had one destination in mind: Koshari Al Tahrir, an eatery near Tahrir Square specializing in koshari, an iconic Egyptian street food of fluffy vermicelli, rice, tender black lentils, and soft pasta elbows. It’s my favorite comfort food, and in Cairo, there is no place that does it better than Koshari Al Tahrir.
There, middle-aged men with friendly smiles would greet you as they assembled koshari layer by layer. I’d watch as they quickly filled shiny aluminum bowls with a base of rice and lentils, followed by generous spoonfuls of macaroni and a ladle of tender chickpeas. With a flourish, they’d stream a bright tomato sauce on top of it all before adding the final touches: a heap of crispy fried onions and drizzles of a da’ah (a garlicky vinegar sauce) and shatta (a chile sauce). This is a scene deeply etched into my memory, and though it’s been 15 years since I moved to the United States, I still think of it every time I make koshari.
The Origins of Koshari
Though no one knows for sure where koshari came from, most people in Egypt believe that kitchari—an Indian dish of lentils and basmati rice—may have inspired the beloved Egyptian meal. It’s possible that Indian soldiers, who arrived with Britain’s occupation of Egypt in the late 1800s, brought kitchari with them. Some say the dish has Italian influences, too, as Egyptian koshari has two distinctly Italian staples: pasta and tomato sauce. To make the dish their own, Egyptians drizzled da’ah, a tangy garlic and vinegar sauce, and shatta, a spicy chile and garlic sauce, onto it. Today, variations of koshari, including mujaddara or mejadra—a similar meal of basmati rice, black lentils, and caramelized onions—are eaten throughout the Arab world.
Koshari is eaten year-round in Egypt, but is a particular favorite during Lent, when Copts (Egyptian Christians)—including my family—observe a strictly vegan diet. Despite using relatively basic pantry staples like rice and lentils, koshari is a meal bursting with tart, savory, flavors, with a wide range of textures that includes crisp onions, tender rice, and an assortment of sauces.
Local Egyptian home cooks rarely make koshari as it’s so ubiquitous and easy to purchase from street vendors, who offer the dish at fairly reasonable prices. For those very reasons, I only became motivated to make my own koshari when I moved to the US—where it isn’t as readily available—in 2008. A meal so ubiquitous in Egypt, and one I took for granted, had become a nostalgic treat. I made it my mission to recreate koshari in my own kitchen.
The first few times I made it, I found it difficult to prepare all the ingredients—the lentils, the rice, the macaroni, sauces, and fried onions—at the same time while ensuring they were each the correct texture and flavor. Through plenty of trial and error, I figured out how to make the best possible version at home. Since perfecting my koshari, my Egyptian friends and family have clamored for the dish and frequently request that I make it. Even my non-Egyptian friends, who didn’t grow up eating it, have come to love it.
How to Make Koshari at Home
Don’t be daunted by the long list of ingredients required for koshari—it’s a fairly simple dish to make. The key to making it well is preparing and laying out all the components before you begin cooking—what the French call mise en place—which helps streamline the cooking process. I recommend soaking the basmati rice in cold water for 30 minutes and the black lentils in hot water for one hour, which will speed up the cooking time and result in tender grains.
Frying the Shallots
An epic koshari would be incomplete without its signature garnish of crispy fried shallots. In a pinch, you could use store-bought fried shallots, but I highly recommend making your own so you can use the fragrant oil leftover from cooking the shallots to make the rest of the dish and the sauces. For thin, evenly sliced shallots, use a mandolin or sharp knife. Be sure to fry in batches to prevent overcrowding in the pan, as that will result in soggy shallots. To keep the alliums as crisp as possible, I recommend straining them with a slotted spoon once they’ve finished cooking, then transferring the shallots to a paper-towel-lined plate or baking sheet.
If you plan on preparing the shallots the day before and want to re-crisp them before you assemble the koshari, you can place them on a baking sheet and refresh them in an oven preheated to 360ºF (182ºC). Bake for five to seven minutes until they’re crisp again.
Don’t Skip the Sauces
Though koshari is delicious on its own, the three sauces—salsa, a mild tomato sauce; da’ah, a tangy garlic-vinegar sauce; and shatta, a chile-garlic sauce—are what make it truly superb. As I mentioned above, the key to success is to set out all your ingredients beforehand so you can quickly make each of these sauces without chaos or confusion. If you have time to spare, I highly recommend making these sauces ahead of time, as they seem to become more flavorful as they sit.
- Salsa: I like to purée fresh tomatoes for this by blitzing two to three ripe tomatoes in a food processor. But for ease, I’ve recommended canned or bottled tomato passata here. I add a teaspoon of granulated sugar to amplify the sweetness of the tomatoes, and for extra depth of flavor, I sauté garlic in some of the shallot oil before whisking in the vinegar, tomatoes, cumin, and coriander.
- Da’ah: Like the salsa, this is a simple sauce to prepare and utilizes shallot-infused oil for depth. Vinegar and lime juice add an acidic kick, which helps to offset the heaviness of the rice and lentils.
- Shatta: Scented with cumin and spiced with red pepper flakes, this garlicky chile sauce brings heat to koshari. I like to make my own, but you can substitute with store-bought hot sauce like sriracha or chile-garlic sauce.
Tips for Cooking Koshari
Koshari is an easy one-pot meal, but with a little effort, you can make a phenomenal one that tastes just like what you’d find on the streets of Egypt. Here are some tips and tricks to keep in mind.
- Coat the rice, pasta, and lentils in hot oil. This prevents them from sticking to one another during the cooking process and results in a fluffier koshari.
- The order you add the ingredients is important. You may be tempted to toss the rice, pasta, and lentils in at the same time, but because they each have different cooking times, it’s crucial to consider the order they go in. Start by frying the vermicelli in oil, then add the rice, followed by the pasta, taking a minute or two between each to evenly coat the ingredients in oil. Finally, add the lentils.
- Fluff with a fork. To preserve the delicate texture of the basmati rice, uncover it once it’s cooked and fluff with a fork.
How to Serve Koshari
Because koshari is such a filling dish, most people enjoy it on its own with just the sauces and fried shallots. Some like to round out the meal with salata baladi, a rustic Egyptian salad of cucumber, tomatoes, green pepper, parsley, and red onions dressed in a simple vinaigrette of lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, and dried mint.
Regardless of how you choose to serve it, I recommend making a big batch and sharing it with your loved ones. It’s the most pleasurable way to have koshari, and if you do it often enough, your friends and family may even start to ask for it regularly the way mine do.
For the Fried Shallots and Shallot-Infused Oil: In a 10-inch skillet, combine oil and shallots over medium heat, and cook, stirring often, until shallots are golden brown and crisp, 20 to 30 minutes.
Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl. Transfer shallots to a paper-towel lined plate to drain and season with salt. Set shallot-infused oil aside to cool. Store the fried shallots in an airtight container until you are ready to use. Store the shallot-infused oil in a clean jar once cooled.
For the Salsa: In a medium saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of shallot-infused oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until garlic is fragrant and golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in vinegar, tomato passata, sugar, cumin, and coriander. Adjust heat to low and simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. (The sauce should have the consistency of a marinara; if it becomes too thick, loosen the sauce with additional water as needed.) Remove from heat and set aside uncovered; remove 1/4 cup salsa and set aside for shatta.
For the Da’ah: In a small saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons shallot-infused oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Whisk in vinegar, water, lime juice, and cumin. Season with salt to taste. (If sauce is too acidic, add one or two tablespoons of water.) Remove from heat and set aside. Wipe saucepan clean to prepare the shatta.
For the Shatta: In the now-clean small saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon shallot-infused oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add red pepper flakes, stirring constantly until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in tomato paste until well combined, followed by 1/4 cup salsa (prepared in step 3) and ground cumin. Simmer on low heat until slightly thickened, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and season with salt to taste. Set aside. (See notes.)
For the Koshari: In a small saucepan or kettle, bring 2 cups (240ml) of water to a boil, set aside. In a 6-quart heavy-bottom pot, heat 1/4 cup shallot oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add vermicelli, stirring to coat in oil until they are a deep amber color, about 4 minutes. Add rice and elbow pasta to vermicelli and stir until evenly coated in the oil, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the black lentils. Pour in the 2 cups of freshly boiled water; there should be just enough to cover the ingredients. Add cumin, coriander, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil over high heat, cooking until all the water has been absorbed, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, cover with lid, and cook until rice and lentils are tender, about 3 minutes. Let rest off heat for 1 minute, then uncover the pot and, using a fork, fluff rice and season with salt to taste.
To Assemble: Transfer koshari to a large serving dish. Drizzle koshari with da’ah and remaining salsa, top with chickpeas, and garnish with the prepared fried shallots. Serve warm with remaining sauce and shatta on the side.
Special Equipment
10-inch nonstick or cast iron skillet, fine-mesh strainer, medium saucepan, small saucepan, large heavy-bottom pot
Notes
This recipe can be halved or doubled.
The shatta should have a similar texture slightly thicker than hot sauce, like that of sriracha. Sriracha or store-bought chile garlic sauce can be substituted for homemade shatta.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The sauces can be refrigerated in airtight containers for up to 3 days. The fried onions can be made 1 day in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
The koshari can be stored in an airtight container or zip-top bag and frozen for up to 1 month.
To reheat koshari in the oven: Preheat the oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Place koshari in a baking dish, cover tightly with aluminum foil, heat until warmed through, about 15 minutes.
To reheat in the microwave, place koshari in a microwave-safe container and heat until warm, about 90 seconds.
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