Standing as we are at the dawn of artificial intelligence, it can be hard to take a saying like "there's nothing new under the sun" seriously. Yet cliches like that exist for a reason—because they're true a lot of the time. I ran headfirst into this fact recently, when we asked our followers on social media which food they'd most like to see "Caesared": pasta, burger, or tacos. The response was overwhelmingly pasta, which I thought would be a fun little culinary challenge.
Standing in the test kitchen, plan of action in my head, I whipped up my vision—spaghetti in a sauce of anchovies melted in olive oil with garlic, black pepper, and a touch of Dijon and Worcestershire, then finished to a creamy emulsion with the starchy pasta water. Topped with parsley- and lemon zest–studded toasted breadcrumbs, I was sure I'd have invented a brand new pasta that successfully evoked a Caesar salad's elements of romaine, vinaigrette, and croutons. But once I was halfway through cooking, I was suddenly struck by the certainty that there was no way I'd created something new here. While delicious, it was too familiar in technique and flavor. I quickly realized I'd accidentally created an olive oil version of spaghetti burro e alici, hardly an original idea. Whoops!
So while the recipe is, technically, a Caesar salad–inspired pasta, it's also an olive oil–based burro e alici. I should have realized that the defining ingredients in a Caesar salad are also super common in many pasta recipes.
As long as I was riffing on the classics, I figured I might as well go all-in and do a second version, one that incorporates the egg element of a Caesar by making an anchovy carbonara—basically, replace the guanciale with anchovies, replace the Pecorino Romano with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and add a dab of Dijon and Worcestershire in a nod the the Caesar. The technique is otherwise the same as a carbonara; as you'll see in the recipe below, I use my double-boiler trick to ensure a perfectly thickened sauce that isn't scrambled.
Once again, as far as how to classify this pasta, you could say I Caesared a spaghetti recipe, though it'd be just as effective to market it as a "carbonara" for pescatarians. Or, both.
Recipe names aside, the good news is that this little exercise has led to you getting two recipes for the price of one, one eggier and richer, the other brinier and simpler. Make one, make both, just...don't call it a new idea.
For the Gremolata Breadcrumbs
In a medium skillet, combine oil and breadcrumbs and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until toasted and golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add parsley and lemon zest, season lightly with salt, stir to combine, and continue to cook until parsley begins to sizzle and mixture is very fragrant of citrus, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer breadcrumb mixture to small bowl and set aside until ready to serve.
For the Anchovy Carbonara Version:
In a large heatproof mixing bowl, whisk together whole eggs and yolks, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Dijon, Worcestershire, and black pepper.
Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook, stirring, until al dente.
Meanwhile, in a skillet or saucier, combine olive oil with anchovies and garlic and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until anchovies have melted and garlic is lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Measure 1/2 cup (120ml) pasta cooking water (you can take it right from the pot as the pasta is cooking) and add to the anchovy-oil mixture.
While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle the anchovy-oil mixture into the egg mixture; take care, because if you add the hot liquid too fast, you may scramble the eggs.
Using tongs and/or a strainer, transfer pasta to egg mixture, stirring it in as you add it to ensure you don't cause the eggs to scramlbe. Stir well to combine.
Set mixing bowl over pot of boiling pasta water (make sure bottom of bowl does not touch the water; you can remove water from the pot to ensure they don't touch) and cook, stirring quickly with tongs, until sauce begins to thicken to a creamy, silky consistency and leaves trails as you stir. Remove from heat, season with salt if needed, and divide into bowls. Serve right away, topping with reserved gremolata breadcrumbs.
For the EVOO e Alici Version:
In a large Dutch oven or wide-bottomed pot, combine 3 quarts (3L) of water and 2 teaspoons (8g) salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add pasta and cook, stirring frequently for first 30 seconds to prevent noodles from sticking.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet or saucier, combine olive oil with anchovies, garlic, and a generous amount of black pepper and cook, stirring and breaking up anchovies occasionally with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, until anchovies have dissolved, about 4 minutes.
Once pasta has cooked for 5 minutes, transfer 1 cup (240ml) of pasta cooking water to skillet along with the Dijon and Worcestershire; continue cooking pasta. Return skillet to high heat and bring to a boil, swirling pan and stirring constantly until cooking water emulsifies with oil-anchovy mixture, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low while pasta finishes cooking to prevent liquid from over-reducing.
Meanwhile, continue cooking pasta until it is softened on the exterior, but well shy of al dente and still uncooked in the center (about 3 minutes less than the package directions). Using tongs, transfer pasta to skillet, and reserve remaining pasta cooking water. Alternatively, drain pasta using a colander or fine-mesh strainer, making sure to reserve at least 2 cups (475ml) pasta cooking water.
Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is slightly thickened and coats noodles with a creamy glaze, 2 to 3 minutes, adding more pasta cooking water in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed. At this point, the sauce should be emulsified and loose enough to pool around the edges of the pan.
Remove from heat, add cheese and toss and stir rapidly to incorporate and emulsify into the sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide between individual serving bowls, sprinkle with gremolata breadcrumbs, and serve.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The gremolata breadcrumbs can be made ahead and stored in an air-tight container at room temperature. for up to 7 days.
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